You’ve found a buyer for your junk car, a tow truck is on the way, and now there’s one piece of paper left: the title. Signing it over seems simple, but a single mistake can cause delays, a rejected transfer, or leave you on the hook for a car you no longer have.
Here’s a plain-language walkthrough of how to sign over a car title when you sell a junk or non-running car.
First, a Quick Word on State Differences
Every state designs its own title document, and the layout varies. Some have the seller section on the back, some on the front. Some require a notary, most don’t. Some ask for an odometer reading on every transfer, while others exempt older vehicles.
Use this guide for the general idea, then read your actual title carefully and check your state’s title guide or DMV website for instructions specific to your state. Many DMVs post a sample title showing exactly where each signature goes.
Before You Sign Anything
Take a few minutes to prepare.
Confirm the Name on the Title
The person or people listed as owners are the ones who need to sign. If the title lists two owners, look at how the names are joined:
- “AND” between names usually means both owners must sign.
- “OR” between names often means either owner can sign alone.
This is a common pattern, but the exact rule depends on your state, so confirm if you’re unsure.
Check for a Lien
Look for a lienholder section on the title. If a bank or lender is listed, you’ll typically need a lien release (a signed section on the title or a separate letter) before you can transfer the car. See our guide on junking a car with a lien if this applies to you.
Gather What You Need
- The original title (photocopies generally aren’t accepted)
- Your photo ID
- A pen with blue or black ink, as your state requires
- The car’s current odometer reading
- Any lien release paperwork
How to Sign Over a Car Title: The Seller’s Section
Most titles have a section labeled something like “Assignment of Title by Owner” or “Transfer by Seller.” Here’s what it usually includes.
1. Buyer’s Name and Address
Write the buyer’s full legal name or business name and address. When you sell to a junk car buyer or salvage yard, this is usually the company’s name. Ask the driver or buyer exactly how they want it written.
Don’t leave the buyer field blank. An “open title,” signed by the seller with no buyer listed, can create problems and is not allowed in many states.
2. Sale Price
Enter the actual amount you’re being paid. Some states use this to calculate taxes for the buyer. Be accurate.
3. Date of Sale
Write the date the car actually changes hands.
4. Odometer Reading
Federal law requires an odometer disclosure for many vehicle transfers. According to NHTSA, vehicles that are model year 2010 or older, or at least 20 years old, are exempt. Your title will usually have a box for the mileage and checkboxes for whether it’s actual mileage, exceeds mechanical limits, or isn’t the actual mileage. Write the number without tenths, and check the right box. If you’re not sure whether your car is exempt, fill it in anyway, or ask your DMV.
5. Your Signature and Printed Name
Sign exactly as your name appears on the title. If the title says “Robert J. Smith,” don’t sign “Bob Smith.” Then print your name where indicated.
6. Notary, If Required
A handful of states require the seller’s signature to be notarized. If yours does, don’t sign until you’re in front of the notary.
Common Mistakes That Can Void a Title
Title errors are surprisingly easy to make, and some states will reject a title that has been altered. Watch out for:
- Crossing out or using correction fluid. Many DMVs treat any alteration as a void title. If you make a mistake, stop and ask your DMV what to do. You may need a duplicate title.
- Signing in the wrong spot. Signing in the buyer or lienholder section is a frequent slip.
- Leaving fields blank. Missing dates, prices, or odometer readings can hold up the transfer.
- Only one owner signing when both are required.
- Using a nickname or different spelling.
If the title is already damaged or has errors, you may need to apply for a duplicate title before selling.
Write Up a Bill of Sale
Even when your state doesn’t require one, a bill of sale is a smart extra record. It should include:
- Seller’s and buyer’s names and addresses
- Year, make, model, and VIN
- Sale price and date
- A note that the vehicle is sold “as is”
- Signatures from both parties
Many junk car buyers provide their own receipt or bill of sale. Keep a copy, and take a photo of the signed title before you hand it over.
After the Car Is Gone
Signing the title isn’t quite the last step. To protect yourself:
File a Release of Liability or Notice of Sale
Many states have a form, often available online, that lets the seller report the sale to the DMV. This creates a record showing the car is no longer yours, which can help if it later racks up tickets, tolls, or towing fees. Look for “release of liability,” “notice of transfer,” or “seller’s report of sale” on your DMV’s site. Deadlines vary: California gives sellers 5 calendar days, and Texas asks for a Vehicle Transfer Notification within 30 days. Our release of liability guide explains more.
Handle the License Plates
In many states, plates stay with the owner, not the car. You may be able to transfer them to another vehicle or return them to the DMV. Some states have different rules, so check before the tow truck leaves.
Cancel Insurance and Registration
Once the car is picked up and the paperwork is done, contact your insurer to cancel coverage. Some states also want you to cancel the registration.
Clean Out the Car
Check the glove box, trunk, and under the seats for personal items and any old documents with your information.
What If You Can’t Find the Title?
If the title is lost, you have options, though they vary by state. Read our guide on junking a car without a title for the general patterns. And if you’re still looking for a buyer, start with our service area page.
FAQ
Do both owners need to sign the title? Often, if the names are joined by “AND.” If they’re joined by “OR,” one signature may be enough. Rules vary, so check with your state DMV to be sure.
Can I sign the title before the buyer arrives? It’s better to wait until the buyer is there and you’ve confirmed their name and the price. Signing early, especially with the buyer field blank, can create problems.
What if I made a mistake on the title? Don’t try to fix it yourself with cross-outs or correction fluid. Contact your DMV; you may need a duplicate title or a correction form.
Do I need to report the sale to the DMV? Many states offer or require a release of liability or notice of sale. Even where it’s optional, filing one is a good way to protect yourself.
Sources
- Odometer Fraud (NHTSA) — federal odometer disclosure requirements and exemptions
- Notice of Transfer and Release of Liability (California DMV) — example of a seller’s release of liability and deadline
- Buying or Selling a Vehicle (Texas DMV) — example of seller title, odometer, and transfer notification steps
Ready to sell your junk car?
Get a free cash offer in about 30 seconds. Towing is always free.
Title rules in your state
Each state guide links to the official forms for transferring a title, replacing a lost one and notifying the state after a sale.
- Alabama
- Alaska
- Arizona
- Arkansas
- California
- Colorado
- Connecticut
- Delaware
- Florida
- Georgia
- Hawaii
- Idaho
- Illinois
- Indiana
- Iowa
- Kansas
- Kentucky
- Louisiana
- Maine
- Maryland
- Massachusetts
- Michigan
- Minnesota
- Mississippi
- Missouri
- Montana
- Nebraska
- Nevada
- New Hampshire
- New Jersey
- New Mexico
- New York
- North Carolina
- North Dakota
- Ohio
- Oklahoma
- Oregon
- Pennsylvania
- Rhode Island
- South Carolina
- South Dakota
- Tennessee
- Texas
- Utah
- Vermont
- Virginia
- Washington
- West Virginia
- Wisconsin
- Wyoming